Thanks to a genetic variation, Honeycrisp cells are twice the size of most other apples, resulting in its signature, addictive crunch. The Honeycrisp was created in 1960 at the University of Minnesota through apple cross-breeding and released in 1991, marking the start of a tree-fruit phenomenon. “It’s just a matter of when.” In any case, the Honeycrisp’s meteoric rise-and its precarious reign-illustrates how industrial agriculture and foodie culture are conspiring to change the makeup of our most basic foods. “It’s going to tank,” Ian Merwin, emeritus professor of pomology at Cornell University, told me. Will the annual Honeycrisp crop ever languish in industrial storage until it’s as unremarkable as today’s Red Delicious? But now, as more growers plant Honeycrisp-and its trendy descendants like the SweeTango and the EverCrisp-apple experts are wondering when supply will outpace demand. It was called the Honeycrisp, and in the intervening years, it became one of the most popular apples in the country, not to mention one of the most profitable items at the market. And I wasn’t the only one who felt this way. It was juicy, sweet and balanced with the perfect tartness, all packed into a profoundly satisfying crunch that snapped me out of my apple stupor. But as soon as I took my first bite, it was a revelation-even better than what an apple should taste like. Its coloring wasn’t terribly remarkable- a rosy blush with yellow undertones. Then one afternoon well into my adulthood, I was perusing fruit samples at the farmer’s market and came across a new variety. But the archetypal apple of my youth, the Red Delicious, had inexplicably transformed into a thick-skinned mealy ghost of its former self that still haunts fruit bowls everywhere. There was a brief affair with the green and tart Granny Smith, followed by a conversion to the firm and flavorful Fuji. Conscious Cuisine, presented by Chase, explores the relationship our meals have with the ecosystem at large.Īt some point during my California childhood, I stopped eating apples.
Chefs and food lovers have long been some of America’s most innovative health and environmental advocates.
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